Set off Friday February 9th stayed in Rouen, then arrived in Cauterets about 6pm. We stayed in the Hotel du Lion d’Or which is located in the center of Cauterets and much closer to the gondola than we were last year. Cauterets is a lovely little spa town spread along the narrow valley of the Gave mountain stream and surrounded by the Pyrenees. The town is well known throughout France for its health giving thermal springs. They are still used in the treatment of respiratory and skin diseases, rheumatism and many other ailments. We’ve not yet sampled the thermal baths and spa but it’s something I think is a must in the future. The Hotel du Lion d’Or was a real gem. Family owned since 1913 and now run by the fourth generation of the Lasserre family. The hotel was built in 1840 and is full of authentic memorabilia in every nook and cranny. The chap (I forget his name) who was the family member that we had most to do with was so helpful and welcoming to us. Nothing was too much trouble and we felt at home immediately.
Lovely bedrooms, so homely in a French style, clean and fresh with a fantastic shower. Breakfast was a buffet with an array of homemade pastries, marmalade (the best that grandma has EVER tasted) and yoghurts. There was a huge fresh orange juice machine which involved crates of oranges being delivered to the hotel daily. There were fresh meats, eggs, together with the usual tea, coffee and hot chocolate. Yummy!
We’re a fairly fussy party of eaters (OK I’m a fussy eater – vegetarian and so is my son) so we decided to eat out in the town throughout the week. The first evening we ate at the Bar L’Aragon, where we’d eaten last year and were happy with the food and service. Back again later in the week for another meal.
Sunday – Day 1 skiing
Left the hotel about 11. Lovely nights sleep and Lovely breakfast, taking full advantage of the fresh orange juice, boiled egg and homemade cakes and preserves. My first time up the mountain and I began by falling off the chair lift, then proceeded to fall 4 times on the way down. Always being dragged to my feet like the proverbial sack of potatoes. I really should have done those thigh exercises. When we finally made it back to the café I had to sit on the floor hyper ventilating #oldladyonamountain glad I did it though and at this stage thought I might be able to concur the mountain. So proud of Callum who really takes advantage of the resort carving up the snow on his board🏂. And hubby too, who has much more confidence than me.
In the evening we ate at Le Bistrot du Boulevard, Cal had crepes, hubby had duck and grandma and I had pizzas.
Monday – Day 2 skiing
First stop one of the many ski shops so that Cal could purchase some mittens because his hands had been so cold and wet the first day. As a snow boarder, every time you come to a stop it means putting your arms down in the snow and it was so deep that the gloves he had were filling up with snow and making his hands freezing. Got up the slopes about 10.30. The visibility was awful you couldn’t see in front of your nose. Cal went straight up the top of the mountain but hubby and I are stayed doing the lower slopes. It was really difficult to see and snow blind most of the time. Big snow drifts on either side of runs making them much narrower for novices like me. In the evening we ate at La Créperie du Moulleau. Staff very friendly and all enjoyed their food but my cheese crepe was just so bland and boring.
Tuesday – Day 3 skiing
Now having been to the top of the mountain I really thought that this day would be my day to conquer it. I was wrong. Started the day with an egg as usual. Had a practice run and then up the mountain with the boys. Unfortunately fell off the chair lift again as I was getting off and then off down the mountain which started off well but then it all went Pete Tong as the weather suddenly came in awful. Fell over in what was effectively a blizzard, hubby struggling to get me up and me struggling to get up. Then fell again. Once down didn’t feel like going up again. Saved by the fact that they closed the chair lifts because of the winds and visibility. Came back early to the hotel for a well deserved rest. Once we’d recovered it was into the town to eat. First it was into my favourite spot for a vin chaud, La Cheeserie. This is a tiny little place with only two rows of bar style seating and serving only cheese and meats. Last year we ate here but grandma wasn’t a fan and even I can only have so much cheese. Mind you we were very tempted with their warm Mont d’Or cheese dip which some other customers were delighting in.
Back to the hotel for an early night, this was definitely not a relaxing holiday. I’m jiggered already but the scenery is just stunning.
Wednesday – Day 4 skiing
Felt like I’d lost my nerve the weather conditions were very bad. You couldn’t see anything. Just white snow blindness. I couldn’t face going up the mountain but hubby and Cal both did. Visibility so poor. I had a rest in the café, should say that everyday up the mountain we had drinks and snacks in the Station de Ski. You did need to be in before 12 or after 2 to be able to get a seat. Somehow none of the queuing bothered us as when you’re skiing you do get so used to queuing. Aaarrrrrrgghhh!!!!
While I was waiting for the boys I thought do a bit of investigation into a possible trip to Lourdes. Always fancied going there and did think about when were in Cauterets last year. But, having done some research it appeared to be full of tacky religious souvenir shops so decided not to bother. Left the slopes about 3.30 again as the weather was so bad. In the evening had another vin chaud at the Cheeserie. Then another meal at Bar L’Aragon.
Thursday – Day 5 skiing
Arrived up the slopes to a helicopter, camera crews and many mountain rescuers together with their dogs. What we didn’t know as we headed up the chair lift was that there was going to be some very sad news – 3 French skiers had been found dead in the morning. Missing on Wednesday evening. It appears that they had been skiing in an off-piste area and had been buried by an avalanche.
Once again I thought that this was going to be my day to conquer the mountain ⛰ And once again, that was not going to be the case. Went up and got down without a fall and then went straight up again, bad idea. Disaster, fell and then became terrified and had to take my skis off and walk a long way down the mountain before I had the nerve to put them on again. What a mega wimp I am. So lost my nerve and had to recover in the café with a hot chocolate. In the evening we ate at a small restaurant that we’d had to book. I can’t remember its name but once we’d been served the food I did realise that we’d eaten there last year. Nothing special and I wasn’t over keen on the very lime green spaghetti pasta that they served with a very average arrabiata sauce.
Friday – Day 6 skiing
Up earlyish and on the slopes. I couldn’t face going up the mountain as it was icy and slushy. Did the lower blue runs. Tired legs and knees was part of my problem I think. Also different conditions again. Sunny and snow melting and icy underneath in parts. So very difficult to ski on. But this didn’t stop Cal and hubby enjoying their last day of skiing. Slush aside we will definitely be back next year.
Saturday day 7
The long drive back. Cauterets to Boulogne and then an overnight stop at our usual B&B hotel.
Sunday day 8
Boulogne to Harrogate via Euro Tunnel. #homewardbound